Isla Mocha

Isla Mocha is a real treasure chest of only 52 sq.km, offering rocky beaches of black and white sands as well as a mountain range covered with virgin native rainforest. The treasuries of this Pacific island can be explored on day trips or on tours lasting several days. There is only one road surrounding the island and less than a handful of cars are around. Locals, known as mochanos, use horse-drawn carriages only.

Getting there & accommodation

Isla Mocha is located 34 km West of Tirua, a small fisher community 200 km South of Concepcion. Tirua is the starting point to get to Isla Mocha by either boat (USD 10 p.P.) or flight (USD 30 p.P.). Flight, accommodation, camping facilities and food is offered at moderate prices by Imme and Mario Hahn – a couple living on Mocha. Contact: Tel. 041/781 1610 or cell phone: 09 326 00 64; 09 554 84 57. Backcountry camping is possible almost everywhere on Mocha.

About Mocha

The first indigenous inhabitants of Isla Mocha, a Mapuche tribe, named the island amuchra which means “the resurrection of souls”. The Mapuche believed that the souls of the dead crossed the sea from the continent to rest forever on Isla Mocha. Almost half of the island´s territory (45%) is constituted of a dense forest of local trees such as Olivillo, Chilco, Arrayan, Arrayan Macho, Ulmo, Canelo, or Boldo. Mocha is an island of birds amounting to 102 different species, including the endangered species fardela castellana that nests under the roots of trees in the upper part of the forest. Isla Mocha is 14 km long and 6 km wide. The climate is temperate year around with an average temperature of 12 degrees Celsius and an annual rainfall of 1350 mm.

History

The island was “discovered” by Spain in 1544. At that time, Mocha was populated by Lafkenches, a Mapuche tribe. Due to their resistance towards the Spanish crown, the Lafkenches were expelled by Spanish authorities in 1685. However, the Lafkenches are said to have been sympathetic towards pirates who stranded on their island until the very day when the British pirate Sir Francis Drake landed on Mocha in 1578. His crew was attacked by Lafkenches and left Drake with a huge scar across his face. Pirate ship wrecks amount to over a 100 laying in the deep sea surrounding Mocha. Such “under the sea- sites” can be explored on diving excursions.
Being vacated for 160 years, the island was re-populated by Chileans in 1833 due to economic and political interests. Today, approximately 650 people live on collecting sea weed, harvesting seafood, and raising cattle. Each family operates their own plot of land and lives according to principles of self-sufficiency and environmental determinism. This fact might be the reason why such a great part of an almost entirely virgin rainforest survived human impact.
On May 22nd in 1960, Mocha was hit by the largest earthquake of the 20th century in the Southern hemisphere. It had a magnitude of 9.5 on the richter scale, generating one of the most destructive tsunami. Waves as high as 25 m reached the island, leaving all inhabitants but one unharmed.

Hiking around Mocha

Mocha is the Chilean counterpart to the Canadian Westcoasttrail. A tour of 31 km brings you to beautiful sandy beaches, idyllic camps and virgin forests, always the rush of the ocean waves in the background. There are few marked trails or public camping facilities. Just take the walk along the beach or the only existing public road on Mocha. Put up your tent at the beach or ask at a farm for camping. Since there is no drinking water on Mocha, ask for it (agua portable) at local farms. It provides a good opportunity to get in touch with locals and acquire helpful information.
Those who get tired of walking, just stop one of the horse-drawn carriages to get a ride. Half way, on the North-East side of Mocha, you will find the “centro civico”, providing some kind of infra-structure with the local church, police office, food market, and the civil registry office. At the Conaf – office (Corporacion Nacional Forestal de Chile) information on Mocha and trails through the forest can be acquired.

Westcoast

For a day trip, you can explore the most Northern point of the island. You might get a ride by Mario or horse carriage to this point. A colony of sea lions, known as piedra de los lobos, can be seen closely from the coast. It takes about three hours to walk South to the old lighthouse, faro viejo, and another 3 hours to get back to Mario and Imme.

Crossing Mocha South - North

You should not miss this highlight. Within the government-protected National Reserve, two hiking trails were created, crossing the island´s mountain range South-North. The trail called Sendero Camino Nuevo is a 2-hours hike to the old lighthouse. On its path, you find a newly created path called Sendero Los Anos Dorados.
The second trail called Sendero Laguna Hermosa, takes you on a hike through a magic virgin rain forest lasting 2-3 hours. Both trails can easily be found, since either the local guarda of Conaf explains the starting point or Mario takes you there.

Starting point

The hike around Mocha can be started at any point. There is only one decision to make- either to want to have the ocean or the forest on your left-hand side. The local runway as well as the accommodation facilities of Hahn´s are located just a 100 m from the coast. Day tours can be organized easily from the accommodation.

Important information

Be aware of jellyfish and currents when going swimming. Always ask locals for more information. The most beautiful beaches are around the old lighthouse, faro viejo.