The most beautiful hikes in Bolivia
Mountain tours in Bolivia – diversity, untouched nature, picturesque lakes and gigantic icebergs
Thomas Wilken is one of the leading experts in the outdoor sector, not only in Bolivia. Thomas and his agency have been guiding active guests through South America for many years. Here he describes exclusively in our blog about :
The most beautiful hikes, mountain tours and regions in the Andes state.
Bolivia undoubtedly has some of the most beautiful mountainous regions on the planet. Most famous is the Cordillera Real, located above the seat of government La Paz, with its breathtaking ice peaks, crystal clear mountain lakes and an almost endless sea of peaks. Here are 6 of the 14 6000m peaks of the country. The Cordilleras Quimsa Cruz and the Apolobamba in the north are similarly built and also located in the east of Bolivia. Both have similar advantages as the Cordillera Real, but are even less developed. To the south, the Cordillera Tunari near Cochabamba and the Kari Kari Mountains over Potosi are connected. Both are mainly characterized by wild rocky peaks that are rarely visited. The western Cordillere (Cordillera Occidental) is dominated by mostly single standing, mighty volcanic mountains. The Cordillera Lipez is located in the very south, surrounded by colourful iridescent lagoons, with peaks just under 6000m high. The Uturuncu even exceeds the magic mark.
In the northwest at the border to Chile, in the Sajama National Park, another 5 6000 m are concentrated in a small space. In addition there are green plateaus, deep blue lakes and Quinual trees up to over 5000m. The variety of plants and animals is accordingly large. And volcanic mountains, the scale goes from under 5000m up to 6542m in many different difficulty levels.
Here I would like to introduce the regions with an example tour (short description).
Northern Cordillera Real:
This part of the King Cordillera is still really untouched. Only the famous Condoriri group with some extremely elegant icebergs like the Cabeza de Condor (5636m), Pequeno Alpamayo (5352m) or Illusion (5395m) attracts a larger number of mountaineers and trekkers. From the picturesque Laguna Chiar Khota you can reach the different high peaks. The easiest to climb is Cerro Austria, a path leading to the panoramic summit. The Ala Izquierda, the left wing, is considered the most difficult climbing mountain. It can only be climbed over an ice flank of about 70 degrees ridge. Even more famous is the Huayna Potosi, the local mountain of La Paz and with its 6088m a real 6000m. In two days the mountain can be climbed from La Paz and at 5200m several huts are available. The only ones in the Bolivian Andes that are not accessible by car. The ice-armoured pyramid catches the eye almost from the whole Altiplano. The rush is accordingly large, despite a not really easy ascent. The opposite Chacaltaya offers that. Once it accommodated the highest ski area of the world, now the glacier has melted down. But it remains one of the most beautiful view mountains of Bolivia and can be reached by car to an altitude of 5200m. Less known, but similarly beautiful, are the two 6000m peaks Chearoco and Chachacomani further north, each requiring 3-4 days to climb. Also the regions around the Paso Mullu, the Laguna Allka Khota or the Paso Calzada offer extremely beautifully shaped 5000m peaks in all difficulty ridges. And beautiful, partly nameless icebergs. A paradise of possibilities with completely unknown mountains, where hardly any tourist is ever on the move. The northern cornerstones of the Cordillera Real Illampu and Ancohuma above Sorata are visited a little more often. Two of the highest mountains in Bolivia, which require the experienced mountaineer to be in very good physical condition due to the long approach and considerable difficulties.
Cerro Wawenqui: Felsberg over the Laguna Alka Khota 5321m
Valley resort: Palcoco (3900m)
Starting point: Lake shore Laguna Alka Khota (4500m)
How to get there: about 2 hours from La Paz, depending on the traffic situation in El Alto, useable driveway
Difference in altitude: 850 Hm
Walking time: 5 hours
Difficulty: short 2 places in the rock, no ice
Above the lake shore of Alka Khota on the western side there are several impressive rock mountains. Despite their closeness to the much admired Condoriri Group and a few icebergs worth seeing, these mountains immediately catch the eye and literally challenge you to climb them. The highest point on the southern side is quite easy to reach and offers fantastic views. On the map of the company Guzman, the only usable one for the Cordillera Real, it is called Cerro Wawenqui and should measure 5321m, which was very close to the value of my GPS measurement. The Laguna Allka Khota can be bypassed with a good jeep, you can even get further into the valley. Shortly before the end of the lake we are quite close to our destination and can climb towards the mountain over grassy hillsides. There are no paths or trails, but you can hardly get lost. The highest summit head rises too strikingly and clearly in front of us. It is located to the west of the lake, to the right when approaching, and keeps an ideal distance to the higher peaks of the neighbourhood. From 5000m the lawn hillsides change into scree hillsides, even further up it gets rocky and we sometimes have to look for something to find the best way through. In between we also need our hands for a short time, but the 2nd ridge (if at all) is nowhere heavier and the climbing places are quite short. At the top we have breathtaking views of the northern Cordillera Real with its endless sea of icebergs, from which the 6000m Chearoco, Ancohuma and Chachacomani stand out. The same is true in the south for Huayna Potosi, Mururata and Illimani.
Southern Cordillera Real:
The southern Cordillera Real is hardly inferior to the northern part in wildness and beauty. Wild rock mountains, mighty ice giants and narrow paths into the Yungas provide considerable variety. The most famous mountain here is certainly the Illimani, visible from almost everywhere, with 6440m the second highest mountain of Bolivia. Next to it is the “headless” Mururata, with 5865m just under the magic 6000m mark and therefore rarely climbed. Legend has it that the Mururata tried to rise above the sun god Illimani and he knocked his head off. He flew almost 300 kilometres and rises above the village of Sajama. Here there are gigantic ice masses and some of the most beautiful lakes of the Andes. Examples are the Laguna Arhuata and the Laguna Kasiri. Although it is easy to reach from La Paz, the Hampaturi area and the mountains around the Cumbre Coroico are also hardly visited. There are many easy 5000m peaks like the Kinkillosa, the Serranias Allminallis or the Cerro Japa Japani. Serkhe Khollo, Wila Manquilizani or the Cerro Charkini are somewhat more demanding, higher and covered with ice. The treks of several days also lead from here to the Yungas, which pass through several different vegetation zones. Yunga Cruz, Takesi Trail and Choro Trek offer exciting descents into the green foothills of the Andes and end in the sultry Yunga regions. A 5-day trek also leads through the Hampaturi area from Mururata to the Zongopass.
Cerro Serkhe Negro (5480)
Valley town: La Paz
Starting point: Laguna Serkhe (4700m)
Journey: 1,5 hours from La Paz
Difference in altitude: approx. 800 m above sea level
Walking time: 5 hours
Difficulty: short 1 points in the rock, no ice, steep scree
Between the ice giants Huayna Potosi and Mururata a pair of peaks stands out, the ice-covered Serkhe Khollo and the dark, sharp-edged Serkhe Negro. Both can be climbed in one day from La Paz, which we always do. First we go via Pampahuasi or Irpavi into the Hampaturital, crossing the capital Palcoma. From Palcoma we can reach different side valleys and over a pass height (with possibilities for paragliding) the Cumbre pass. But we always keep straight ahead past the meanwhile 3 reservoirs. At the last one a driveway leads to the right into the mountains. Further up it becomes more and more adventurous and leads through steep mountain slopes to Laguna Serkhe. A little before, shortly before the path leads downhill, we can follow a path in a bend that leads to Serkhe Negro. This one offers the shorter approach path compared to its white neighbour. We climb through reddish to orange coloured rubble (keep your eyes open, you can find a few quartz crystals every now and then) towards the soon rising mountain in front of us. There are no paths, so we just keep as straight as possible towards the mountain. On our left side we identify the “weak spot”, which allows us to pass through. We bypass the first rock strip to the left, then we climb straight up under the rocks. We cross a steep trench with easy climbing spots and later steep scree before we reach the dark summit head. On its left side is the ascent side. First we briefly need our hands again, the rest is only exhausting. There are even some traces and soon we stand on the mighty summit head. During my first ascent I was surprised by a small cross on the summit and the recognition of a safe ascent path to Serkhe Khollo. Because from here the views into the route and the summit area of the somewhat higher Serkhe Khollo are ingenious. But also the deep views towards Yungas are fascinating. Of course the old acquaintances like Illimani, Mururata and Huayna Potosi are also visible and tower above the Hathi Khollo towering directly in front of us.
The Cordillera Apolobamba, the northernmost mountain region of the country, is located in the very north of Bolivia, partly already in Peru. An alpine mountain range with huge glaciers, rugged peaks and countless trekking opportunities. With the Chaupi Orcko there is even a real 6000m mountain. In addition there are many high 5000m peaks like Kantutani, Palomani, Cuchillo, Akamani and many more. They are not really well known, but very rewarding. However, the journey from La Paz to Pelechuco even with a good jeep takes about 8 hours, by bus about 12. From Pelechuco the classic 5 day trip to Curva can be made. Also here we are surrounded by gigantic icebergs, crystal clear lakes and rocky high peaks.
Valley village: Pelechuco
Starting point: Camp Killua Khota under the Sunchuli Pass (4719m)
Directions: 8 hours from La Paz, plus 2 days trekking
Difference in altitude: good 900 Hm
Walking time: 7 hours
Difficulty: easy ice tour, steep scree, high altitude
The Cuchillo at the Sunchuli Pass is not yet one of the highest peaks of the Cordillera Apolobamba, but it is a magnificent summit with a significant height. Unfortunately, the size of its Firnmatel is getting smaller and smaller, but there are no special dangers or difficulties during the ascent. And the ascent is still very rewarding. From the camp we first climb towards the Sunchuli Pass, but later turn left towards the mountain. The upper rubble fields are a little tedious, but easy to walk on. Of course there is no path, like on most mountains in the region. But the ice fields are relatively flat and therefore easy to walk on, but they only make up a short part of the ascent. Of course the most exciting one with an enormous view under a deep blue sky. The complete Cordillera Apolobamba with its numerous high peaks around 5900m lines up in front of us. Looking north as well as south we see majestic mountains of rock and ice. Below us a few mountain lakes and isolated farms shine. This region is still original and quiet. But new roads are planned, one mine after the other will be developed, and the donkeys will be replaced bit by bit by cars. This piece of land will not be isolated from the outside world forever, and will adapt more and more to the modern lifestyle. But this is the only way to prevent a total exodus to the cities, especially the prosperous El Alto.
Despite its proximity to Bolivia’s third largest metropolis, this mountain region above the city of Cochabamba is hardly visited by hikers or mountaineers. The very great heights are not to be found here, but the 5000 meters mark is nevertheless easily reached. But there are hardly ever mountains and treks that are not described anywhere. Instead of white firn we find striking rock peaks, mostly surrounded by fine debris and partly quite easy to climb. You just have to try the routes because you don’t have any information in advance. Actually the most exciting form of mountaineering at all. Wide plateaus and countless picturesque mountain lakes complete the picture. Only the main summit, Cerro Tunari, is offered by a few organizers, I introduce it here.
Cerro Tunari (5038m)
Valley resort: Cochabamba (2800m)
Starting point: Laguna Liriuni (4400m)
Journey: approx. 1.5 hours from Cochabamba
Difference in altitude: good 650 m above sea level
Walking time: approx. 4.5 hours
Difficulty: no ice, sometimes a bit exposed, very easy to climb (1)
The landmark of Cochabamba can be seen from much of Bolivia’s third largest city. A national park close to the city is also named after him, and a type of beer chose his distinctive silhouette as its logo. But above all, the mountain offers a really interesting ascent, in a lonely landscape and with far-reaching panoramic views.
First we circle the Laguna Liriuni on the right side with some ups and downs. Behind the lake we climb a moderately steep lawn slope, sometimes with tracks. A steep scree slope follows, which we have to overcome. There are, not always clear path tracks, but at least they lead up. In the upper part they become clear and we turn right towards the summit. The terrain here is rather flat but a little exposed. At the very top we overlook almost the entire Cordillera Tunari, but also large parts of the Quimsa Cruz, which is overlooked by the omnipresent Illimani. Also the deep views to Cochabamba are quite impressive. For the descent we also use the simple southeast ridge. Through the rubble fields we can descend quickly.
Cordillera Quimsa Cruz
Although one of Bolivia’s smaller mountain groups in terms of area, it is considered by connoisseurs to be the most beautiful next to the Cordillera Real. Due to its proximity to the latter, it can almost be regarded as their southern extension, but between Illimani and Quimsa Cruz there is a clear gap or a very deep valley. Due to the proximity to the Yungas, this mountain group is strongly glaciated and it is home to numerous 5000m peaks. The Gigante Grande, the Jihuana and the Cerro Don Luis rise to almost 5800m. These are the 3 highest elevations of this region. And there are several other high peaks that reach far beyond the 5000m mark. To the north, the village of Viloco is the gateway to the area. Here one finds mainly climbing mountains – and routes in great heights. The Cordillera Quimsa Cruz is considered the region of Bolivia with the strongest rock, and there are many granite mountains, while the Cordillera Real consists mainly of brittle slate. The Cordillera Santa Vera Cruz forms the southern conclusion with the Pico de Fortuna and the Cerro Santa Vera Cruz as the highest elevations. In addition to glacier mountains, we will find crystal clear lakes such as Laguna Chatamarca, Laguna Laram Khota or Laguna Kholla Kucho and many more. One lake bluer than the other, all surrounded by fantastic icebergs and easily accessible by car through the numerous mine paths. Other important peaks are the freestanding Korychuma, the Ataroma, the beautiful Cerro Mina Khollo and the Cerro Santa Ana. The capital Quime already forms the transition to the Yungas and lies at a pleasant 3000m above sea level.
Cerro Don Luis (5782m)
Valley resort: Quime(3000m) or Oruro (3700m)
Starting point: Laguna Congelada (4850m)
Journey: approx. 2 hours from Quime or Oruro
Difference in altitude: good 1000 Hm
Walking time: approx. 6-7 hours
Difficulty: medium ice tour with exposed final ridge and places up to a maximum of 50 ridges. Crevasses, no tracks
One of the 3 highest giants of the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz is called Cerro Don Luis. We can get close to him via mine roads and drive up to at least 4800m. The way is very adventurous and exposed but beautiful. You can camp at the Laguna Congelada. Alternatively there are very simple, abandoned barracks of mine workers, to whom I personally prefer the tents. During our ascent we camped here for 3 nights, as with the Cerro Ana and the Gigante Grande further high peaks offer themselves for ascents. There are also smaller 5000m peaks (the names are hard to get out) and very beautiful lakes in the immediate vicinity. First we climbed over rough boulders to the glacier. Its lowest part is flat and covered with some stones. Afterwards it gets much steeper, but you can climb almost anywhere through the slopes. You have to watch out for crevasses. But at some point we should keep to the right, direction south, at least when we have chosen the recommendable south ridge as ascent path. The final ascent is steep, narrow and somewhat exposed, but the main danger is that we miss it looking louder. Because now an endless sea of icebergs lines up in front of us. I cannot name most of them, they are too unknown, there are not enough publications about this region. But they are all impressive 5000m peaks, hardly visited, but of impressive shape, with tempting firn decorations or exciting rock ridges. There is still a lot to discover and get to know here. We in Bolivia will certainly be busy with this for years and decades to come. In the Alps, these mountains would have lost their attractiveness again in the face of so many visitors.
Cordillera Occidental North
The counterpart to the Cordillera Oriental with its glaciated, rather alpine peaks is the volcanic Cordilliera Occidental. Here, isolated volcanic giants dominate the scenery. The landscape is characterized by volcanic sands and is rather sparsely overgrown. However, as soon as there is a river or brook nearby, this changes immediately
Then there are green pastures with huge llama and alpaca herds and a myriad of birds. Andean geese, pond chickens, kari karis, flamingos and if you are really lucky you can even observe a condor. More and more often you can see the ostrich-like ratites called suris, but they disappear as soon as they take us away. Less shy are the Andean foxes or the wild Llama species Guanaco and Vicunia, which are very common. A Puma, however, I could only see twice live: Once in the zoo of Banos and once in the zoo of La Paz….
With the Sajama here is the highest mountain of Bolivia (6542m), flanked by the twins Parinacota (6345m) and Pomerape (6280m) and further giants like the 6000s 3Gestirn Guallatiri (already in Chile), Acotango and Capurata. Of course there are several other high peaks like the Umurata, the Condoriris or the Cerro Celeste. A little further south from Sajama is the salt lake Salar de Coipasa, smaller than Salar de Uyuni, but also passable and very impressive. In addition, most of the time, one is still on the road as the only jeep. With Cabaray and Taita Sabaya there are 2 giants on the road from Oruro to Iquique and with the Alto Toroni another 6000m rises directly above the salt lake.
Valley resort: Sajama (4400m)
Starting point: bend in the mine road to approx. 5300.
Directions: approx. 40 minutes from Sajama.
Difference in altitude: approx. 800 m above sea level
Walking time: approx. 8 hours
Difficulty: relatively easy 6000m; no climbing, steep descent through some hard rubble; mostly easy walking with crampons required, no crevices, rich sticks and crampons, all ice can melt around November
Famous national parks like Lauca, Chungara or Sajama, 6000m peaks like Parinacota, Pomerape, Sajama and Guallatire, picturesque lakes, green plateaus and hot springs. The Lauca – Sajama region is a true paradise for hikers, trekkers and mountaineers. Right in the middle is our Acotango, a 6000m high mountain that is not yet one of the fashionable mountains of the Andes, but has the potential to become one. Thanks to new mine roads, it is possible to climb up to 5300m and often even higher and the rest of the ascent offers hardly any technical difficulties. One of these is the Acotango, thanks to its ideal location among the most panoramic mountains in Bolivia. Several 6000m peaks of the region are well visible from its summit, the mostly smoking head of the Guallatire is directly opposite it and the view goes up to the salt lakes of Surire and Coipasa. With a little imagination, the Pacific Ocean can be recognized, the Cordillera Real that is approximately 300 km away also without it. Especially the mighty Illimani is hard to miss. In addition all high peaks in the north of Chile like Taapaca, Larancagua or the almost 6000m Tacora. On the way you can see quinual trees and colourful rock formations. With a little luck you might even see a fox or vicunias. Gone are the days when we had to take wooden boards and shovels with us to get through sandy sections and get close enough to the mountain.
From the curve at 5300m we start straight ahead into a clearly cut valley. We follow it, sometimes through fields of buffs’ ice, perhaps only through rubble, until the unmissable north ridge blocks our way. So we choose a halfway flat flank and climb up. This is exhausting but not difficult, and with a suitable speed no real problem. Arrived at the ridge a great experience awaits us. Suddenly we can look into Chile, see the Laguna Chungara, the Lauca National Park and the road to Arica. Above it the twins Pomerape and Parinacota rise, much closer in front of us, approximately at our height, the colorful Umurata. After all, we have already reached 5800m. Now we follow the ridge and avoid a rocky elevation on the left side. Here we often find beautiful sulphur crystals. After a few meters we reach the ice fields under normal conditions. With crampons we can now climb towards the summit in a leisurely rhythm. The last 80 meters are a bit steeper, but who wants to give up so close to our destination? Soon we can dig out the silvery suitcase of the Banco de Chile and sign the summit book. But above all we have a summit panorama that is hard to top.
In the descent we stay up to the end of the ice fields at the ascent way and turn before the small counter ascent directly to the right into the debris flank. Attention under the stones the ground is quite hard, so the descent requires some concentration.
The most beautiful hikes in Bolivia
Cordillera Occidental South
Also the southern part of the Cordillera Occidental is covered with volcanoes. With the Uturuncu (6020m) only one exceeds the 6000m mark, but many mountains like Licancabur, Sairecabur, Cerro Lipez, or the active and mostly smoking Ollague are close by. Interesting is the ascent of the Tunupa, which rises directly above the biggest attraction of the Cordillera Occidental, the Salar de Uyuni. Daily the Salar is crossed by several jeeps, which visit the Isla Pescado, and drive on to the southern lagoons. This tour lasts 3 days and takes you through breathtaking landscapes. The Laguna Colorada with its orange to purple color, and the Laguna Verde with the Licancabur in the background, stand out, but there are still several other lakes in different colors, like the Laguna Honda or Laguna Canapa. Other highlights of the round are the Arbol de Piedra, a mushroom-shaped, freestanding monolith, the Geysire de Manana and the hot springs which invite many guests for a swim.
Colourful Tunupa (5205m)
Talort: Uyuni (3700m) or Tahua at the same altitude
Starting point: end of the road at 4000m
Directions: approx. 1.5 hours from Uyuni, 30 min from Tahua
Difference in altitude: 1200 Hm
Walking time: approx. 7-8 hours
Difficulty: quite good 5000m; no climbing, steep scree
At Tunupa, the rules of the local municipalities, to which the MAS government has granted their own jurisdiction, are particularly complicated. From Colquesa, the mountain can only be climbed with a local “mountain guide” who has neither foreign language skills nor alpine qualifications. However, you can demand as much as a mountain guide from La Paz who can offer both. Thus the population still resident here is to be supported. Whether coercion is the right way may be left open. Of course, these people know the way, and since they don’t adapt to the pace of the guests, it’s best to let them run ahead before you overdo it downstairs. From Tahua you can climb the mountain without a local guide. And you can get even higher by car than from Colquesa. There are some simple accommodations in both places. It is very nice to spend the night here at the Salarrand. The main summit of the Tunupa is even 5400m high, but due to its extremely fragile rock it has hardly ever been climbed for many years. Since it is really dangerous also we remain with the colorful Tunupa.
In the lower area there are some Llamapadden the direction mountain lead. This part of the trail is quite long. As soon as the colorful ridge appears in front of us there are no more ways, only rubble. We win a small saddle, then it becomes steep and arduous. The worst parts can be bypassed on the left side of the ridge, but it remains quite a bustle. But only for a good 100 meters, then the ridge flattens out a bit and the ground becomes firmer. So we reach the summit without any problems. A vantage point of the first rank that offers breathtaking views over the never ending Salar de Uyuni. Everything is white among us, and only some volcanoes and small islands like the Isla Pescado rise out of the salt. We descend, now with much less effort, the same way.
The exact opposite of the volcanic regions, but also worth mentioning, are the Yungas. Yungas are the transition zones from the high mountains to the Amazon lowlands. They are located at altitudes of about 1000 to 2500m and are characterized by heavily overgrown mountain peaks. The most famous place is Coroico at 1700m. From here, one can view the high peaks of the Cordillera Real from a completely unusual perspective. Around the place there are numerous coca plantations, as between 1000 and 2000m height, the plants thrive best. The coca plant has a centuries old tradition in Bolivia and is mainly chewed and drunk as tea. However, more and more leaves are used for cocaine production. The Yungas are also known for the downhill bike descent from Cumbre Coroico at 4700m down to Puente Yolosa, which is only 1300m high. Meanwhile one of the absolute classics around La Paz. There are no famous peaks in the Yungas. Most of the steep, densely wooded peaks are hard to climb, because without paths or at least paths these mountain forests are difficult to cross. A well laid out path leads from Coroico to the Cerro Uchumachi that I would like to introduce here.
Cerro Uchumachi (2480m)
Valley resort: Coroico (1700m)
Starting point: Corico or Hotel Esmeralda
Directions: 3-4 hours from La Paz
Difference in altitude: 750 Hm
Walking time: approx. 4 hours
Difficulty: slippery paths, a few meters short below the summit require sure-footedness, crossing mountain forests, but on paths
The Cerro Uchumachi offers a completely different mountain tour than the ones presented so far. It is located directly above the tourist resort of Coroico, which is especially popular with Pacenios and downhill bikers. Here everything is green and overgrown and the starting point is at a muggy 1750m. On steep paved roads that can be a serious hurdle for many cars, especially those with worn tires, we climb towards Hotel Esmeralda. Here a path leads directly to the top, which leads to a road that leads to the chapel and a few antennas. To the right of the chapel we continue and soon the wide path turns into narrow paths that are always easy to find.
These lead up to the first part of the forest. Here you have to cross dense mountain forest, but the paths are clear. However, with the wetness that often occurs here, one inevitably gets touched by the wet leaves and quickly gets wet. Then it goes over meadows again. The deep views of the river valleys below us become more and more impressive, and if we are lucky the Cordillera Real is cloudless. Then you can see the icebergs like Mururata, Tiquimani or Huayna Potosi from the unusual east side. A short time later we pass through the forest again, and then steeply straight ahead towards the summit. Some steep stone steps stand in our way, then we almost made it. At the top a huge, still overgrown plateau with deep views on Coroico and a mad view to “above” awaits us. On numerous summits of the Cordillera Real and the steep eastern slopes of the region. Also the bike route “Camino de la Muerte” can be seen from here. The descent is inevitable on the ascent path, because otherwise we will not get through the forest.
Thomas Wilken Tours
Mountaineering & Trekking
Adventure Tours in South America and the Pyrenees
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