Plomo 5451 m

Acclimatization mountain near Santiago

Trekking, medium • 4 days
Peak, alpine • 1-2 days

The ascent to Cerro Plomo is easy to organize, technically easy to climb and offers scenically rewarding tours. Furthermore the Cerro Plomo is easily attainable. In other words; it makes a fine acclimatization ascent for strenuous mountain hikes like the Cerro Aconcagua or the Ojos del Salado. The tour to the base camp is already rewardingly enough for trekkers. Mountaineers, well equipped with climbing iron and pickaxe, need another day to reach the peak of Cerro Plomo, from where you will have one of the best views over the Central Andes. For an even better acclimatization it is advisable to climb Cerro Leonera, just below the 5000 m. The Cerro Plomo is noted for its "Puna" - mountain sickness. Many times this is explained by specific winds and the pressure ratio accompanied by it. In reality this is due to the fact that many vastly underestimate the tour and try to ascent the mountain in a single weekend.

Starting Point

Santiago

Arrival

2 h transfer to La Parva. Even the upper part of the ski slopes at 3160 metres can be reached in an ordinary taxi. At the end of the paved road, almost at the town limits of La Parva, a gravel road follows at the right hand just next to the gates. This is also a good location to arrange a meeting the arrieros.

Day 1 (680 m 480 m WZ 6 h)

We follow the trail, a short cut through the serpentines, for 1-1,5 hours till we reach the highest lift station, just below the pass. Depending on the road condition we might be lucky and reach this point by car as well. Only a short ascent separates us from the pass at 3594 m. Follow the trail downhill, keep left to the lake, traverse a small stream march uphill to the next ridge till we are at the same level as before. Now we descend to the next valley, lush green due to grass and Llarretas (Azorella compacta). Once more we traverse a stream and climb up to a ridge. We catch sight of the green Molina valley, where our first camp, "Piedra Numerada," is located at 3384 m. A fine place to set up tents might be just above the green willows shortly before the steeper ascent to the waterfall, right next to the stream, however it is only suitable for a few tents.

Day 2 (870 m 20 m WZ 4-5 h, 4288 m)

We hike along the caved trail westerly of the stream. After a short while we have to cross the stream, usually you will find a plank to do so. Early in the morning this plank may be covered with thick ice, so be careful. The serpentines, composed of rubble, lead the way uphill along a waterfall and after approximately 3/4 hours at 4153 m we reach a parting of the ways. At 100 m to our left there is a bivouac hut, belonging to the Andean federation, it is in relatively good shape and offers space for up to three people. As the space around the hut is flat it offers sufficient space for tents, adjoining to the campsite flows a stream of clear mountain water. Alternatively, we can ascend the trail for another 0.5-1 hour, mount up to the camp "La Hoya" at an altitude of 4288 m, in doing so we will pass a waterfall which is mostly frozen. The camp is located in between Leonera and Plomo just below the glacier and offers stunning views.

Day 3 (575 m 15 m WZ 3,5 h)

This day is suited for an acclimatisation ascent of Leonera at 5000 m. Therefore follow the rubble slope upwards, westerly from the camp La Hoya. Along side the moraine crest, at 4430 m, a trail leads the way further up to Portezuelo between Plomo and Leonera. After about 1.5 hours at 4613 m we reach the foot of Leonera, still far away from the pass. We have to mount for 3 hours till we reach the southern side of the mountain, over boulders and fine rubble up to a drawn-out rocky trail at 4840 m just below the peaks. We ascend the last part to the peak at 4987 m either through rocks or rubble.

Day 4
(1140 m 30 m WZ 5-6 h, 5451 m)

The Plomo is not only well known for its distinctive Puna, but also for its often in the afternoon occurring storms. It is advisable to watch the weather closely and plan the descent accordingly. The trail leads along the way up and after approximately 1 hour we reach the derelict Bivouac hut "Agostini" at 4626 m. We force our way up over rubble, don’t stay too close to the right side. After approximately 2-3 hours we reach the ridge of the mountain at an altitude of 5186 m, here the way flattens and leads a bit further up to the glacier at 5210 m. At the other side of the glacier serpentines lead the way up to the summit, which is marked by a summit cross at 5451 m, to reach it schedule another 1.5 hours.

Maps for this tour