Palomo (4865 m / 15,961 ft.)

The mystery mountain

South of Río Cipreses National Park we find the second largest glacier zone in Chile. This rarely visited area offers fascinating landscapes to the few insiders who come here. It is unquestionably a first-rate destination in South America! Countless granite towers jutting from the ice, many of them never touched by human hand, make up a landscape as breathtaking as the Fitz-Roy Massif. Long glacial tongues extend down into the valleys where guanacos graze. Right in the middle of this rugged area towers the Palomo Volcano with its 4865 m (15961 ft.) summit.

Though technically not particularly demanding, the tour is a physical challenge because of its length, altogether 80 km (50 miles) long. We therefore definitely recommend the use of pack animals to carry the equipment, which will also make it safer to cross the rivers. Some of these are true torrents! The Palomo can be ascended from several sides. Here we describe the southern route, accessed by crossing the Azufre River, because this trailhead is easy to reach by public transport. The trail does not include any technical climbing, however you will need knowledge on crevasse rescue.

Starting point

San Fernando

How to get there

During high season, there are daily buses from San Fernando, a little town 140 km (87 miles) south of Santiago, to Termas del Flaco (Buses Amistad, ph. 72-710348, Buses Rutamar, ph. 72-723400, a round trip ticket costs about $6000 pesos). From Monday to Saturday, buses come down in the morning only and go back up in the afternoon. On Sundays, it is the other way around. After a journey of two hours, we get off the bus at the Azufre River Bridge.

Day 1

We cross the small suspension bridge below the confluence of the Tinguiririca and Azufre Rivers. There is a small religious statue on the big rock on the other side of the bridge. Right next to it there is a little spring with drinking water coming directly out of the mountain slope. A little further downstream there is a hut. Before starting the tour we should ask Mr. Eduardo "Lulo" Rivadeneira for permission to pass through his property.

It is a good idea to get horses to carry the pack; this is easy to organize on the spot. Without horses, some river crossings are a great challenge at any time of the year. We set up our first camp in the shade of trees immediately above the hut. But watch out: some of the trees are the native "litre" (often shrubby, with rounded, powdery-green leaves showing yellowish veins on top) and can produce allergic reactions.

Day 2
(6 h, 684 m/2244 ft. , 321 m/1053 ft. )

For the lower part of the route we recommend starting early to avoid the heat of the day. From the camp we follow a well-marked trail above the river. After a short distance, another trail branches off to the left, but we stay on the main path that soon leads us to the Helado River. Here we cross the river either by using an improvised bridge that looks like a ladder and should be lying on the riverbank or we cross on foot using sandals.

Across the river, the trail is well marked, following the continuous ups and downs of the west bank of the Azufre River. Only two hours after leaving the camp we find a brook with fresh drinking water. After another two and a half hours we arrive at one of the most beautiful spots of the tour. Tall basalt pillars line deep valleys, tricahue parrots nest in sandstone caves and mountain cypresses line the gorge. On the other side of the river we can see the Tinguiririca Volcano. Shortly afterwards we reach a little shelter called "Los Negros" which is used by arrieros (mountain pastors).

In just under an hour the trail goes through the Santa Elena River, which was about 70 cm (28 inches) deep with a strong current the day we crossed it. After crossing, it will take you less than 10 minutes to arrive at the Chacaye camp, a beautiful shady place below two giant pear trees. Right next to the trees, on the other side of a pen, there is a little spring for drinking water.

Day 3
(7 h, 1062 m/3484 ft. , 125 m/410 ft. )

For about 30 minutes we follow the trail, but then leave it to go down to the riverbank. This is where the Portillo and San José Rivers (on maps the latter is sometimes called San Andrés) meet to form the Azufre River. We have to cross the Portillo River flowing in from the west. This is where the horses will be a great help. In any case, the river must be crossed in the morning when it is shallower and carries less melted snow and ice than later in the day. Crossing this river on foot is only recommended for experts and requires a safety rope, since the current is very strong and the river deep. According to the arrieros, the Portillo River is easier to cross further upstream.

The trail continues winding its way uphill and then above the mountain ridge, where it splits into many trails. We simply go downhill on the east face, passing a little forest on the left along the north bank of the San José River. This forest called "Los Lunes" is shaded by maitén and escalonia trees and also offers places to camp and spring water. The entire hike from camp 2 to this spot, including the river crossings, requires about 1.5 hours and implies covering another 209 m (686 ft.) and 90 m (295 ft.) .

From now on, the trail keeps disappearing up to the next camp at the glacier tongue. We stay on the north side of the San José River the whole time between the bank and the nearby mountain slope. The trail goes slightly uphill and downhill the whole time, covering rough slopes of scree and then moraines, which we reach after about three hours. This is where we can replenish our water reserves. From Los Lunes forest to the moraine we have to climb some 451 m (1480 ft.) and 25 m (82 ft.) .

However, the tiring part only begins here, leading us uphill over the rough gravel of the moraine. We stay close to the river and do not climb up along the brook coming from the north. The steep climb soon grows flatter and leads us over rough slopes of scree. After 2 to 3 hours, we reach campsite 3, located on the shore of a shallow lake at the foot of the glacier. This involves climbing another 402 m (1319 ft.) and 10 m (33 ft.) . Until here the horses can carry the pack guided by the arrieros. All times given for the hike are based on trekking only with a daypack.

Day 4 (rest day)

The surroundings of the camp are especially beautiful. Make sure not to miss the hike to the mouth of the glacier with its huge chunks of ice. From here we can climb along a brook up to the south side moraine. On the other side there is a large lake right in the middle of awe-inspiring scenery.

Right opposite the camp, on the other side of the river, we can get a great view of the imposing tongues of the glacier and the way up to the Palomo summit. However, to get there, we have to cross the icy-cold river. Just go uphill on the other side to reach some grassy spots on the slope.

If we are lucky, we will see guanacos and Andean geese near the camp. It is also not rare to catch a glimpse of condors flying in circles high up in the air.

Day 5
(5 h, 755 m/2477 ft. , 31 m/102 ft. )

For around 45 minutes we follow the north side of the lake that stops at the end moraine of the glacier. From its lower part we climb uphill over up the scree-covered ice, reaching bare ice only after another 45 minutes. The tongue of the Universidad Glacier leads us first to the northeast, and then turns sharply to the north. On the way we have to walk around a sérac (a pinnacle of ice formed by the glacier) and overcome many deep crevasses. Once over the sérac, we set camp number 4 on the west side of the glacier.

Day 6
(4 h, 567 m/1860 ft. , 5 m/16 ft. )

This day's hike takes us first slightly uphill to a steep slope below the Palomo. From there the trail winds its way up the slope. At 3820 m / 12533 ft. we reach the upper end where an extensive plateau stretches before us at the feet of the mountain. To the left, right next to a single mountain signpost, we find a sheltered place for camp 5.

Day 7
(8 h, ascent 1049 m/3442 ft. , 41 m/135 ft. )

We are almost there! For slightly more than one hour we cross the plateau following the signposts until we reach the sérac. On its left, we start climbing uphill 220 m (722 ft.) up to a height of 4040 m (13255 ft.). Above the sérac we cross over to the mountain, after another 45 minutes we reach a strip of lava rock leading downhill at 4100 m (13451 ft.). From here, the trail winds its way steeply uphill to a platform right below the summit at 4600 m (15092 ft.). The platform contributes to the volcano's distinctive profile and can be recognized from a long distance.

From here, we reach the summit at 4865 m (15961 ft.) in another hour and a half. The summit book lies under a pile of rocks. Admittedly, we will not find many entries, which adds to the thrill of this tour.

Hikers could meet two difficulties for consideration on the summit day. The first is that, during summer, a large number of penitent snow icicles are formed which are hard to overcome. The second is that, in the afternoon, the snow softens a lot and you might sink in it waist deep with each step. On our tour it took us 4 hours to hike back from the peak to camp 5.