Llaima
(3125 m / 10,253 ft.)
The
Smoking Monster
East
of Temuco, capital of the Araucania region, is one of the most
active volcanoes of South America: the impressive Llaima. From
its 3,125 m altitude, it seems to contemplate the world from above
the clouds, and its smoking crater reminds one of a sleeping giant
who at any moment may wake and vent all his wrath.
The
peak is formed by a large crater with a diameter of 350 m. From
here you have the view of an amazing landscape with several magnificent
volcanoes: Lonquimay, Tolhuaca, Sierra Nevada, Callaqui and Copahue
to the north, and Villarrica, Lanín, Quetrupillán
and Choshuenco to the south. Not to mention the lakes, mountains
and woods in this part of the Andes.
No
doubt that the ascent of the Llaima volcano is one of this region's
biggest mountaineering challenges. The most common route is on
the northern side, starting from the park ranger's station Captrén
of the Conguillío National Park.
Approach
by road
Starting
from Temuco, there are two options; one of them is to follow the
paved road to Curaucautín (84 km). The bus company Erbuc
(phone: +45-272204) has three departures every day: 07:30 –
10:15 – 11:15. From Curacautín there is no more public transport
and the way of approach is along a dirt road for 34 km.
The
other option is to take the paved road to Cherquenco (82 km) and
then follow the dirt road (22 km) up to the Araucarias Skiing
Centre, which is the starting point for the ascent over the western
slope. There is public transport up to Cherquenco with the Nar-Bus
company (phone: +45-407740) which has four departures every day:
11:30 – 13:30 – 16:30 – 18:30.
Both
alternatives start at Temuco in the midst of green fields, which
then give way to the Andes areas covered by Nothofagus woods and
finally reach the areas where the woods are dominated by the queen
of trees of this region, the Araucaria (Araucaria Araucana).
Admission
Admission
via Captrén: $2800 (around 4 USD) per person.
Admission free via the Araucarias Skiing Centre.
Day
1 (6-8 hours)
If
you choose the northern route starting from Captrén, first
follow the ridge on the right. There is a little path; after that
the route goes almost straight up. The route starting from the
Araucarias Skiing Centre follows the ski-lift up to the end. From
here you cross the plain, always keeping to the north-east, until
you climb up a little edge. Then turn to the right (towards the
south) until you get to a geyser called “Chimenea”.
From this point it takes one more hour going straight ahead up
to the top.
For
both routes you should take the following equipment: ice-axe,
crampons, rope, map and compass. Moreover, always bear in mind
that there are many loose rocks on the slopes of the volcano and
the terrain is quite steep, which makes rock falls very frequent
and can be fairly dangerous if you don’t take appropriate
precautions. The multitude of crevasses, which are formed as the
ice blocks break apart due to the steep slope and strong sun on
the northern side, can also pose a significant danger to mountaineers.
The
descent takes about 3 – 3.5 hours.
Guide for this tour
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