Descabezado Grande
(3,830 m / 12,566 ft.)

The Decapitated Volcano

Trekking, with snow cover: Alpine
5 days

"The Great Decapitated One", which is visible from afar as a literally "decapitated" volcano, is a truly impressive specimen of its kind with a base 10 to 12 kilometers long and a crater measuring 1.5 km across. On April 10, 1932, in one powerful eruption, its side crater Quizapu spread 25 cubic kilometers of volcanic matter all over creation: The ashes even fell on South Africa. Legend has it that the name of the 700 m wide crater comes from the colloquial expression "Quién sabe, pu!" (Who knows!), supposedly the answer to the question for the name of the crater on its south side.

This technically easy climb is not only worth doing for volcanologists. The extremely variable scenery makes this a Dorado popular with hikers and climbers alike. Descabezado rules with its ice-filled main crater over clear streams, waterfalls and hot springs, jungles with flocks of parrots, and a white ash desert. You need to be prepared for fields of hard snow until well into early Summer, so take crampons and iceaxe.

Point of Departure

Talca.

Approach by Road

The paved international highway to Argentina goes through the quiet little town of San Clemente. This is where you can load up on food for this tour. At the 40 km marker, a well-kept gravel road starts to Vilches. After another 26 km and a total of about an hour, you will get to Vilches resort with its Conaf Information Center at an altitude of over 1,000 m.

From Talca bus station, there are several buses daily in both directions; riding time: 2.5 hours approx. For information, call Buses Vilches, Tel. +71-235327

Fees

Admission: USD 1.60, tent camping: USD 13 per site (official campsite) or USD 1.60/day and person in certain places inside the reserve.

Day 1 (8 hrs.)

From the Park entrance a trail leading east is clearly sign-posted "Mirador" and "Valle Venado". After about 4.5 hours of strenuous uphill hiking you will reach the Refugio, or what little is left of it. There is drinking water and camp sites close by; a few spots are right by the water a few hundred meters before you get to the Refugio.

Then you will have to pay extra attention on the stony stretch that follows; the path branches off several times. Keep to the right throughout, towards where the downhill to the north becomes flatter. After about an hour, you will get to a Mirador rewarded with a gorgeous view of Rio Claro valley.

There, the clearly visible and sign-posted path zig-zags down to the Claro gorge. Follow the river downstream in order to climb up the next valley, Rio Blanquillo, in an easterly direction. The turn-off is sign-posted and you will recognize it from afar by the lavafield. Occasionally, the path disappears; but finally you will reach a hut next to which you can camp.

Day 2 (8-9 hrs.)

From here, the path leads steeply uphill, always staying to the north of the hardened lavaflows in Blanquillo Valley. The first great view of Descabezado can be had from Laguna Blanquillo which will also refresh you with a cool dip. After another short climb, and after crossing the river three times, you will have a view over a wide pasture at the foot of the mountain. Then follow the little stream to the little stone house of the arriero, who can also give you current information about the ascent. He lives right next to the hot springs that invite you for a nice break after a 6 to 7 hour hike.

But don't give in to the urge yet; better hike another two hours so that you can camp as close as possible to the mountain. The trail is obvious and visible to the most part. Except in the Spring, you cannot count on finding drinking water once you have passed the hot springs, take at least five liters per person from here! (The white spots on the slopes are not snow, but pumice rock.)

Day 3 (7 hrs.)

Leaving your packs behind, first climb up the slope of the volcano towards the saddle between Cerro Azul and Descabezado; then climb your destination from its southern side.

The rocky part of the ascent snaking upward like a band in the porous volcanic rock looks quite difficult from afar. However, it is actually easy to tackle; you will hardly need to use your hands. Once again, you will be climbing through pumice rock, up to a spot with a view of the giant crater of Quizapu between Cerro Azul and Descabezado. On the last stretch, choose the rocky part since the loose pumice rock is tiring.

When you finally have arrived at the crater's edge at 3,815 m, you will see that all the toiling was worth it! From here, you have an excellent view across the Central Andes towards the north, far into Argentina, of glaciated mountain peaks, and of the huge crater of Descabezado.

Return the same day to the cozy campsite by the hot springs.

Day 4 (3-4 hrs.)

Descend to Rio Claro the same way you ascended via the valley of Rio Blanquillo. Walk upstream along Río Claro, and after about an hour, turn into the second valley to the east for a few hundred meters, where Despalmado waterfalls have formed a pretty lagoon. A great place for a swim and for pitching your tent - the most beautiful campsite on the whole tour!