Illimani

With 6460 m height Illimani is the probably highest collection of the southern Cordillera Real. It stretches wide and white to the southeast of La Paz. It was climbed for the first time in 1898 by the British mountaineer Conway, but only in 1939 it started to be climbed by the west side, discarding the ascent by the Yungas sector. With favorable weather conditions, the ascent through the usual southern route is relatively simple. With adverse weather conditions, some difficulties might emerge due to the strong winds and low temperature. Just under the summit, a steep hillside must be climbed with precaution and using pertinent equipment.

Access

On a trip of approximately 4 hours by roadway you face two options. The first is through Ventanilla and the second is through Río de La Paz and the town of Unna to get to Pinaia. There is no public transportation to the latter. A four-wheel drive vehicle charges between US$ 70 to US$ 90 for the trip, including gas.

Day 1

In Pinaia, at 3850 m, it is possible to rent mules and hire chargers to get to the base camp. Since the trip to the camp is only two hours, it is possible to do it the same day of arriving to the town. From the town there is a clear view of the broad Illimani and its snow-clad peaks. The route on the east goes up through prairies and corridors in sight of the massif. The base camp is located on an extended prairie on the banks of an inlet, at 4470 m. Unfortunately, it is quite exposed to the winds. Be careful, there have been reports of implements and equipment theft at nights!

Day 2

We cross the prairie on our way to the Illimani. The hillside starts going up on a wide road that little by little becomes a path marked by landmarks that cover the detritic cone. The path ascends by an extended and sinuous crest for about 2 to 3 hours. It soon ends at the snow slope or at the glacier, even with good weather conditions. Then, it is necessary to count another 2 to 3 hours to get to the "Nido del Condor" (Condor Nest) altitude camp, located at 5500 m. A protected plain allows for the installation of a great number of tents. Be careful with the melting snow, the sanitation matter is not yet resolved! With favorable weather conditions, not only the nights will be cold, but also the sunsets will be wonderful, looking at the distant Sajama.

Day 3

Like in all summit ascents, we should set out between 2 and 3 o’clock at night. The sun melts the snow by the afternoon making it difficult to climb faster. We continue the previous day’s ascent, climbing through a chain of peaks. The way is very steep in this place, then for some 500 m is flat, and later it goes up abruptly with no interruption until the top. The sector is known for the ice on its wall, so it is recommended to make certain to use 7 lengths of rope, both in the ascent as in the descent. The summit offers unique visual sensations, since the Illimani, at 6 450 m, falls directly into the green Yungas plains, while the Cordillera Real is seen to the north in all its extension, and to the west, the Altiplano stretches all the way. The ascent lasts between 6 and 8 hours, while the descent takes 2 to 3 more hours. In addition, the climber who would like to go all the way down to base camp will have to plan another 2 to 3 hours.

Day 4

Descent to the town of Pinaia, at approximately one hour from base camp.