Huayna Potosí

This mountain is easy to arrive, has a relatively simple normal route, and its impressive southern slope makes it one of the most climbed mountains in Bolivia and it is also the most photographed. It is part of the Cordillera Real. It can be climbed on a long hike in one day or by setting up a camp at 5500 m. Even though it is 6049 m high, it must be the easiest mountain to climb in the Cordillera Real.

Access

We pass in front of the Chacaltaya skiing resort. There is a road control in Milluni and after about two hours we arrive at the Zongo pass refuge. Here we find food and lodging options, we can hire guides and rent equipment. The refuge is at 4700 m and it is possible to get there by minibuses or by taxi.

Day 1

From the refuge, we cross the contention wall of the lake Zongo dam. We then walk along the aqueduct to the beginning of the path that stretches over the top of the moraine. We continue on a steep slope formed by the moraine until, after 2 hours, we arrive at the glacier. The most used trail is the one that leads to the north. Ascending slowly, we arrive after about 4 hours to the high camp, at 5500 m, called "Campamento Argentino" (Argentinean Camp). This camp is located on a plain at the foothill of the steep and abrupt ice hillside that will be climbed on the next day. Be careful, because even at this altitude there have been reports of equipment theft!

Day 2

We climb up the cliff. Be careful, since it’s mainly at the top that the crevasses are! In front of us we see the pyramid-shaped summit, the base of which we attain after approximately 4 hours. The ascent through the north side is considered the normal route, even though the way to the summit is on a very narrow and sinuous crest. Depending on the snow conditions, the width of this path is between 50 cm a nd 1 m, with steep slopes on both sides. As a relatively simpler alternative, the east side can be tried both for the ascent and for the descent with the use of ropes. To get to the summit, at 6 080 m, 2 to 3 more hours should be considered. Normally, the descent to the camp is done the same day.